Orbit Cannon

[Dark Dragon XXII]

Head // S4, 10 cooling

Core // URANUS, 10 cooling

Arms // FL, 10 cooling

Legs // DINGO2, 10 cooling

 

Booster // GULL, 10 heat

Generator // LOTUS, 10 capacity

Radiator // ANANDA, 10 cooling

 

FCS // F73H

Extension // RM2

Back R // DRYAD

Back L // RA

Arm R // SHADE

Arm L // R3

 

OP // AMINO, ES, SS, KISSYOH, L+, CODON, HISTON, RIBOSE, MARISHI

 

Paint: Normal

B 30, 30, 30

A 165, 180, 200

O 15, 0, 30

D 200, 50, 60

J 120, 120, 120

 

Weapons:

All // White

 

Edit : new pic, frontal. This one's rigged with 69M. It's just a small difference.

 

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs984.snc4/75785_1354090432382_1835096963_650253_3814991_n.jpg

 

Notes:

This AC is designed for hide-and-assault tactics. With rapid-fire SHADE and URANUS at 200 range, the pressure is more than enough to keep an opponent at bay. However, the ammo shower tends to last for only a few seconds, leaving enough EN to hide and recharge for another burst. For safety measures, I slapped in the most stable Head/Radar combination. Why the DRYAD? Against high AMS Response Cores [like U5, or E2], the chances of interference are reduced at the cost of more EN Drain and 4 missiles [compared to 69M.]

Edited December 4, 2010 by Niji
Added AC:LR prefix.

[Pendragon]

AGH! THE LENS FLARE! IT KILLS ME!

 

But in all seriousness. the design looks like it's on the right path. Got a good missile combination, and the rifle duo would give you a decent payload without costing you vast amounts of ammo or energy.

 

Not much to nitpick from this point of view, but I'm sure the other guys will come in with some sound advice.

[Dark Dragon XXII]

AGH! THE LENS FLARE! IT KILLS ME!

 

But in all seriousness. the design looks like it's on the right path. Got a good missile combination, and the rifle duo would give you a decent payload without costing you vast amounts of ammo or energy.

 

Not much to nitpick from this point of view, but I'm sure the other guys will come in with some sound advice.

 

haha! don't worry. I changed the pic )

 

I'll wait for them.

[Hollywood]

Gaea is better than Uranus so that could change and RM3 is much better than RM2.

[Dark Dragon XXII]

Gaea is better than Uranus so that could change and RM3 is much better than RM2.

I know. But I intended this to be a close-range EN monster, so URANUS stays on.

 

 

I have a new, significantly improved version of this AC, but it relies on similar tactics like the one on Notes at the first post.

 

See it below:

 

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs1228.snc4/155999_1355178339579_1835096963_653202_7824307_n.jpg

 

Head // S4 [ 10 cooling ]

Core // URANUS [ 7 cooling, 3 def shell ]

Arms // FL [ 5 cooling, 5 def shell ]

Legs // DINGO2 [ 5 cooling, 5 def shell ]

 

Booster // GULL, 10 heat

Generator // LOTUS, 10 capacity

Radiator // ANANDA, 10 cooling

 

FCS // F73H

Extension // SAISUI

Back R // 69M

Back L // RA

Arm R // SHADE

Arm L // ROC4

 

OP // AMINO, ES, SS, L+, CODON, GOLGI, HISTON, MARISHI

 

Paint: Normal

B 30, 30, 30

A 165, 180, 200

O 15, 0, 30

L.Arm O = 0, 30, 30

D 200, 90, 60

J 120, 120, 120

 

Weapons:

All // White

 

Notes:

This one's meant for extreme (but controlled) EN spamming at close range. Pressure is guaranteed at the maximum. The lockbox size may come as an issue, so it demands excellent tracking skills. Plus, it has no forms of AMS [decoys, Core VSMG], making it an easier target for missiles, but not really that easy as long as you have great evasion/twitching skills.

 

EDIT: quote, missing tune values.

 

Which one works better? The common DINGO2 runner, or this EN monster?

 

 

RE-EDIT

 

Edited November 29, 2010 by Dark Dragon XXII

[YUNG MASTERLESS GLENCOUR]

Nah lionheart is right. Gaea is better than uranus at all ranges. That includes in-close. Uranus is just plain bad. Bad stats and a bad EO.

 

The pressure on uranus/shade/roc4 wouldn't be very good, at all. You'd run out of energy well before your opponent and two of those weapons are highly inaccurate....and lastly you paired them with another special lock.

 

If you're gonna run roc4, you either want to run it with another roc4, or a WS lock weapon.

 

Your first bot was better. I will say though that almost anyone whose ever tried to make a strong bot with gaea tends to make the same thing:

 

s2

gaea

fl, xs, or macaque

d2 or c2

f73h

gull

lotus

ananda

rm or rm3

starter rader

starter missiles

shade

r3

 

some optionals (I might have forgot stuff but it's all very obvious choices)

 

What you have is just a weaker form of that. I think you might want to build that default bot, play with it a little and get a feel for the stats and capabilities of it, then try to make something from there...assuming you even want to change anything. I suspect if you want a more aggressive pressure-offense kind of bot, you'll want to make some changes. Run batteries (elix) and probably not use much on the back, among other things. There's plenty of options on that front, we'd just need to explore them more closely.

[Harakiri Tiger]

The problem with the video isn't the quality, it's that you're fighting a tank AI.

 

Also, what PD said is dead on, too.

 

One of the problems with your weapon allocation is the Shade being used as CQC pressure. It's designed to provide threat/pressure at mid-range and it serves as a poking weapon at long range. It's not bad at CQC, but it's definitely not ideal. If you really want to run a right arm energy weapon that you can use up-close I'd roll Hollow. Probably Hollow/HP/Gaea. I used to have a Hollow/R3/Gaea quad that was gouged on AP/Def. It worked wonders at mid-range.

 

=\

[Dark Dragon XXII]

I figured... that left ROC4/URANUS simply gave me the huge disadvantage [even SAISUI and tracking wasn't enough to handle them]. If it isnt about the vid quality, then I'm sorry about the test run on such a helpless target XD I have no one else to do the testing here, anyways.

 

I made a third version based on your answers:

 

Arm R > Shade

Arm L > Dragon

Core > Gaea [ 7 weight, 3 dshell ]

Extension > Jiren

OP's > Amino, ES, KISSYOH, L+, Codon, Golgi, Ribose, Marishi

 

EDIT:

I gave up the CQC thing. This time, I've set this bot for mid-range poking. It performed better at CQC as well, even better than the second bot which did the pointless EN showering.

 

I loved those colorful lasers from my AC reminds me of Phantasma. LoL

 

 

 

 

Last edit... probably :

Edited December 4, 2010 by Dark Dragon XXII

[YUNG MASTERLESS GLENCOUR]

I still think r3 is a superior choice to dragon on the l arm. Otherwise it all seems workable.

[Hollywood]

You'd have better luck with an R3, HP, or Sylph on the left hand to get bigger box.

 

Dragon is fine, IF you are playing the AI.

[Harakiri Tiger]

Tsuranga uses Dragons all day. Double Dragons, even.

[YUNG MASTERLESS GLENCOUR]

 

At least you know 2x dragons wouldn't break the Code of the Dragon. They won't be harming shit!

Edited December 1, 2010 by Colon Mokto

[Taurus]

btw, if you wanna keep your dragon, try this...

 

- change your generator to G91 or FUDOH.

- removed SS, then put HISTON and PHAGE for option parts. (actually, SHADE didn't need GOLGI but DRAGON does...and your total stability was good enough with S2 head, so I'd drop SS)

 

but at last, I'd agree with Niji, PD (current name is "Colon Mokto"), and Lion (current name is "Hollywood") all the way.

[Dark Dragon XXII]

btw, if you wanna keep your dragon, try this...

 

- change your generator to G91 or FUDOH.

- removed SS, then put HISTON and PHAGE for option parts. (actually, SHADE didn't need GOLGI but DRAGON does...and your total stability was good enough with S2 head, so I'd drop SS)

 

but at last, I'd agree with Niji, PD (current name is "Colon Mokto"), and Lion (current name is "Hollywood") all the way.

 

G91 sucks with GULL on... and FUDOH's too heavy.

removing SS is definitely a bad idea... DINGO2 isn't stable enough on its own, really.

and to clarify, I already have GOLGI on that version.

 

I think I can stay with that bot.

[Harakiri Tiger]

Dingo2 is very stable, haha. Nothing wrong with using SS if you feel uncomfortable with the default stability of the AC, though.

[YUNG MASTERLESS GLENCOUR]

s4+d2 should I think be pulling 6k at least, before stability optional. I forget though...either way if you're above 6k stab you're good to go.

[Harakiri Tiger]

A butt naked build of S4/Uranus/FL/Dingo2/Gull/F73H/Lotus/Ananda without tunes gives a base stability of 6374. As you add weight or remove weight on the bot you can change that stability rating by around 50 points. Changing it more than +15/-50 points via weight is basically impossible, though. You're basically guaranteed 6300-6400 stability with S4/D2 unless you go overweight.

 

If you add on SS, you'll automatically get bumped to a base stability of 7011.

 

 

 

EDIT: I have my PSP here at work with me, haha.

[YUNG MASTERLESS GLENCOUR]

There it is.